Mixed Review: Crate and Barrel Lavender Scone Mix

[Photographs: Carrie Vasios]

Lavender is something that I prefer to keep to my laundry rather than my food, with two notable exceptions: Eating in Provence, and Easter. Crate and Barrel clearly feels the same way because in addition to seasonal offerings like felt bunnies and egg shaped cake pans, they sell a lavender scone mix. It's not a new offering, but one that's worth revisiting in time for the holiday.

Standing in the store, I imagined the review in my head. "These scones taste like flowery soap, like my grandmother's eau de toilette, like something Ms. Havisham would have rotting on her table." I go to Crate and Barrel all the time (I have an addiction to tableware) but frankly a box of lavender scones from a home decoration store seemed like a bad idea.

At home, I saw that the mix is extremely straightforward. All it requires is mixing 3/4 to 1 cup of heavy cream (I used the latter) into the mix, rolling the dough into a circle, cutting out 6 wedges, and baking.

Early on I noticed that the mix didn't smell overly flowery. Also, the dough, when it came together, had the shaggy texture of actual scone dough. Both good signs.

The scones baked to a light golden color in just over 20 minutes. I let them cool and then immediately, if tentatively, dug in. The first thing I noticed was the taste of vanilla. The second, a glimmer of lavender. But both those tastes dissipated before I could even swallow, leaving me with the floury, plain scone dough taste similar to the taste of a Starbucks scone if you've had the misfortune of already eating off the icing.

Texturally, the scones were pretty good: Extremely moist and soft (and they stayed that way for three days in a Ziplock bag) if lacking the ideal flaky layers. In fact the pleasing texture allowed me to mindlessly munch my way through a plain scone, and then, more happily, through a scone spread with jam.

The truth is that I would take not-enough-flavor over soapy-lavender-flavor any day of the week. With a little butter or jam, these scones are passable and it wouldn't be the worst thing to serve them at brunch. I feel like their perfect destiny is as part of an Easter gift basket to an eager, if culinary challenged, hostess.

$7.95 at Crate and Barrel

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