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Everything you want to know about chocolate
This is hands down one of my favorite cookies ever. Back in 1998, when I was still the pastry chef at The White Hart Inn in Salisbury, CT, I eyed a recipe for Triple Chocolate Cookies with Pistachios on the last page of my Gourmet magazine. A chocolate cookie studded with semisweet chocolate chips, white chocolate chunks, and pistachios. Um, yum!
They were an immediate hit at the Inn. Years later, they found themselves in my cookie lineup at the bakery (giant, bakery sized portions this time), and I could be found in my basement kitchen, heave-ho-ing the scraps into my mouth as I wrapped up logs of dough to store in the freezer. Over the years, I've kept the overall structure of the recipe the same, but, being the pastry chef that I am, I've tweaked a few minor variables along the way. (We can't help it people).
This cookie has all of the elements of cookie perfection. The cookie is cocoa-chocolaty and buttery. It's ever-so-chewy from the hygroscopic (moisture retaining) brown sugar yet slightly crispy on the outside. It's chock full of bittersweet chocolate chips and creamy white chocolate chips, making this a triple chocolate concoction. Crunchy, coarsely chopped salty-sweet pistachios complete this one hell of an addictive cookie.
I liked the salty aspect so much that I took it a step further by sprinkling a few flecks of sea salt on the cookies before baking. Salt might not be the first thing you think of in sweets, but it really heightens flavor—especially of chocolate and nuts!
The most important thing about this post is that I've never made a copy of this recipe or written it down, anywhere. (For those who know me—not a surprise). For the past 14 years I've relied on the the actual hard copy from the magazine. The issue is smudged and yellowed, has survived a flood in my bakery, two moves in NY, one to Boston, and one to Singapore. I can't tell you how many times I've thought it lost and freaked out, then torn through my trove of old magazines with the image of the cover burned in my brain. "Where's that damn table setting with the white lilies?!" Any attempt to find this recipe online has failed— I guess some old recipes are like dinosaur bones; buried forever. This week is my attempt, finally, to make sure that it'll never be lost again.
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About the Author: Yvonne Ruperti is a food writer, recipe developer, former bakery owner, and author of The Complete Idiot's Guide To Easy Artisan Bread. You can also watch her culinary stylings on the America's Test Kitchen television show. She presently lives in Singapore and is currently at work constructing her new blog, "ShopHouseCook".