Pairing buckwheat with chocolate may seem odd until you try it. Both are smoky, earthy, velvety and strong, making them perfectly suited for the others' company. I like to have a gluten-free chocolate option in my repertoire that's not the clichéd torte, which can be too heavy for a lot of occasions.
'Shuna Lydon' on Serious Eats
Labne and I were introduced over 10 years ago and her effervescence has never waned. Thick, buxom, confident, tart, generous and obliging. This is the yogurt all yogurts dream of being one day. Even if you despise cheesecake, as I tend to, I beg of you to try this version.
I have been having a long-term not-so-secret love affair with citrus. Mandarinquats, Meyer lemons, Minneola tangelos, Persian limes, Kalamansi, orange blossoms, Oro Blancos, cocktail grapefruits—they're all my lovers and I fear I cannot choose just one.
It seems odd to say that one of my favorite aspects of this ice cream is its bitterness—its 1-2 punch of double bitterness created by the burning of the honey and the long steeping of a tannic roasted tea—but it's true. Somehow by being a ridiculously smooth and silky butterfat-enveloped ice cream it all calms in your mouth. My First Assistant sums it up by saying it tastes of bubble tea without the large black tapioca pearls. Whichever way you spin it, it's a delicious ice cream flavor you can't stop eating once you start. And it's refined-sugar free. Sugar refined by humans, that is.
I have a thing for foresty flavors. If a tea is described as mossy; if pine needles are infused into a custard; if gnomes built their homes and hung their tall red felt hats there, I'm in. While making a California Bay Laurel leaf pastry cream and blueberry compote for a filled doughnut, I discovered the blueberry's affinity with piney flavors. At Peels, where I'm the pastry chef, we offer seasonal herb, fruit and vegetable monthly-changing sweet and savory scones. Cornmeal offers great textural juxtaposition, as well as an obvious seasonal pairing. On the East Coast there's no better berry to dedicate late summer bakery offerings to than our prized blueberries.
Internet folk may know Shuna Lydon as the voice behind eggbeater, a long-running and beautifully written blog full of musings on the craft of baking and the life of a pastry chef. California folk may remember her as pastry chef at Yountville's Bouchon, before a number of other kitchens on both sides of the Bay; New Yorkers may know her as the pastry chef at Peels, where we're pretty crazy about her muffins and sweets. So we're thrilled that she'll be sharing five recipes with us this week—as a baker and a blogger, who could be better?