Sugar Rush: Apple Cranberry Muffin at Réveille Coffee Co., San Francisco

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[Photographs: Carrie Vasios Mullins]

When Réveille Coffee Co. made the move from being a coffee truck to their first brick and mortar store, they did it with style. They chose a bright, airy space on the corner of Columbus, bought attractive coffee and espresso machines, and added a legit breakfast and lunch menu that includes products from great local companies (Della Fattoria bread, Bellweather Farms yogurt, and Inna jam, to name a few.)

They always have a small but appealing selection of baked goods, and most recently I gave into their Apple Cranberry Muffin ($3). The flavor of the muffin (always listed as Seasonal Muffin) changes often, but in this case, that's not a problem. The truth is the fruit isn't the star.

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That's right—I had just two cranberries and a slightly better but not impressive showing of apple in my so-called Apple Cranberry Muffin, which peeved me at first. But then I took another look at what I was eating. From the outset, it looks more like a fancy little cake than a muffin, and that's pretty much what it is. The crumb is moist, a little dense, and very buttery without being greasy. The sweetness is less prominent than the butter flavor, and the brown edges impart toasty notes. Best of all, there's a crackling sugar crust crust.

On days I'm looking for a fruit-packed muffin I'll skip this treat. But on days that I'm looking for a well executed little coffee cake, this will definitely fit the bill.

About the author: Carrie Vasios Mullins is the editor of Serious Eats: Sweets. She likes to peruse her large collection of cookbooks while eating jam from the jar. You can follow her on Twitter @carrievasios

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