Sugar Rush: Pecan Danish from Bonomini Bakery, Cincinnati
I admit to being a sucker for any mom-and-pop business that truly pulls together a family on top of making incredible pastries. On the morning I went to Bonomini Bakery to meet Ginny—the second of the three generations that have run the bakery since 1955—her sons were back in the kitchen and one of her granddaughters, Emmy, was hanging around the counter, grabbing a coffee and her favorite pastry to take with her to work. Like her grandmother, she was incredibly friendly and enthusiastic about her family's trade. And she just happens to have excellent taste in pastry.
Her personal favorite, Bonomini's Pecan Danish ($1.37), excels because of the light hand they use with sugar and the freshness of their pecans, which stay crunchy and saturate the top. The cakey danish is not particularly sweet, with a squishy texture that collapses easily between sticky fingers but doesn't lose itself completely when dunked in a cup of coffee.
The lot gets drizzled in a light stream of somewhat-thin glaze, adding just enough sweetness to pull it all together. I was particularly psyched by that overall combo—just-sweet pastry base, crunchy pecans, thin glaze—that made me feel only slightly guilty that I was noshing these down alongside Klunkers and Cheesecake Cups at 10 a.m.