Sugar Rush: The Peach Frangipane Tart at Take the Cake, Cincinnati
Take the Cake in Northside is perhaps better known for their rotating (and swiftly selling) weekend brunch menu and super-sweet cake creations. But the ever-changing selection of fruit tarts deserve shout-outs, too. We were warned that the Peach Frangipane Tart ($4.50/slice) we were ogling might not be there the next time we came in, but that's what's so refreshing about Take the Cake—they play with a large gamut of sweet and savory, giving their fullest attention to each in its own time.
The frangipane layer of the tart was exciting in an understated way—almonds are ground almost into a cream, then layered on top of a thin pastry crust that pillows the fresh peaches above it. Even after some refrigeration, the crust stayed flaky and the frangipane didn't get too soft. The fruit on top wasn't syrupy sweet; the fresh peaches and thin layering of jam adding a brightness and burst of late summer flavor. Lightly toasted almond slices on top stayed crisp, giving an extra nutty texture in contrast to the otherwise smooth tart.
Overall, nothing is too sweet about this tart, so it's fitting both warmed with a scoop of ice cream for an indulgent dessert or solo as a breakfast sweet paired with a strong coffee and some eggs. Bottom line—if the word "frangipane" is on the menu, chances are whatever fruit is laying on it will be treated well, too.