Serious Eats: Sweets
Behind the Scenes: Plating the Candy Box at Glass, Berlin
At his new Berlin restaurant Glass, chef Gal Ben Moshe is putting himself to the test, changing the menu every day with the ultimate goal of creating a tasting menu of iconic dishes that each tell a story. "I want eight dishes that tell a story from beginning to end," says the Tel Aviv native. "We don't do radical changes everyday, but we make small touches every day and it pushes us to be more creative and more daring."
Lucky for us, he's already nailed down the dessert, a sweet take on his childhood experience of digging through a candy bag. "It's a childhood image that I realized I had in my head, going on a picnic with my mother, and going through her bag looking for candy," he explains. The Candy Box became an expression of that memory, and Ben Moshe collaborated with the staff, asking everyone to contribute their favorite childhood flavors.
Although some of his inspirations clearly come from his impressive background—he spent time working at restaurants greats like London's Hibiscus and Chicago's Alinea, and he plates the dessert on a mat similarly to that restaurant's famous final course—Ben Moshe says the dishes at his Charlottenburg restaurant, including the dessert, are completely unique to himself. "Those experiences gave me the tools to create really what is a very personal restaurant," he says. "It would have been very similar if I had done it without having worked at those restaurants."
And although you'll see some of the classic signs of a restaurant that some might classify as ultra modern—chocolate mousse made from liquid nitrogen, flavored powders, and tweezer plating—Ben Moshe says he's trying to bring something else to Berlin. He calls it gourmet completely reinvented. "We are not a showcase of technology, not a showroom for haute cuisine," he points out. "We are just trying to give customers an experience that is something different."
Take a look at the slideshow above to see how this master chef does just that and brings his childhood Candy Box table side.