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[Photograph: Carrie Vasios]

The plain, straight-off-the-tree fruit from Frog Hollow Farm is always so delicious (like freakishly, unfailingly so) that I usually stick to the produce over buying any of their temptingly rustic baked goods. Well that's half the reason—it's also freakishly expensive. I'll easily drop about $15 for a bag of fruit.

Yet my last trip to the Ferry Building was a glorious summer Saturday. The crowd was buzzing, the stands were all laden with my favorite fruits and vegetables, and I felt gleefully happy. And indulgent, apparently, because I sprung for both a bag of nectarines and a Cherry Tart ($6) all for myself.

The tart was totally worth it. The crust is buttery and flakey, essentially a fluted pastry bowl to hold a pocket of fat, sticky baked cherries. The fruit has both expanded and collapsed, leaking some juices into a puddle on the bottom of the tart but also providing a gush of flavor when bit into.

It's not the easiest tart to eat (that's why you'll see no interior shot) as the fruit doesn't come flush with the crust and moreover, the interior is more like a pile of cherries than a filling. But that's also why it's great: all fruit flavor, no unnecessary sweetness, and a perfectly executed crust.

Frog Hollow Farm

San Francisco Ferry Bldg #46, Ferry Bldg Marketplace, San Francisco, California 94111 (map)
(415) 445-0990; foghollow.com

About the author: Carrie Vasios is the editor of Serious Eats: Sweets. She likes to peruse her large collection of cookbooks while eating jam from the jar. You can follow her on Twitter @carrievasios

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