Serious Eats: Sweets
First Look: Craftsman & Wolves, San Francisco
With its sleek glass pastry case, exposed bricks and beams, and black trim, Craftsman & Wolves isn't your typical, homey bakery. But the modern decor at this one month-old bakery from Chef William Werner, formerly the pastry chef at Quince and Telltale Preserve Co., fits with the menu, which is more about new interpretations and interesting ingredients than retro comfort desserts.
Take a look inside the custom black pastry case and you'll see riffs on French classics. There are gougères with smoked cheddar and chili flakes and croissants with tahini and passion fruit. Pain au chocolat has been deconstructed then reconstructed in towering form. In addition to interesting flavor combinations, there is an emphasis on texture—whether it's a few drops of crunchy granola topping a soft sponge cake or a gooey line of caramel sandwiched inside two brownies.
Though breakfast sweets dominate the front of the store, scoot around the side to see the changing selection of "Cube Cakes." These cakes are Chef Werner's response to the sheet cakes he made during his years as a pastry chef in hotel kitchens. His goal? With individual portion sizes, everyone can get a flavor they enjoy.
From cornflake and cocoa nib granola to chocolate salted caramel brownies, click through the slideshow to see what's baking.