[Photograph: Robyn Lee]
Is there anything more disappointing than chunky ice cream with insufficient chunks? I've seen minor family wars erupt when a delinquent relative sneaks all the big toffee chunks out of the Ben & Jerry's toffee ice cream, leaving craters of empty vanilla behind for the next chump. Chunky ice creams are all about promises, and ice cream shouldn't be allowed to break promises.
With that in mind, here's a chunky ice cream that refuses to let you down. It's about 30% chunk by volume, so every spoonful is full of more than a few bites. I wanted to riff on rocky road, but when you're going for such a high chunk factor, you want a little more variety than the usual chocolate, marshmallows, and almonds (some people use walnuts or pecans, which are nice, but not especially chocolate-friendly). So this recipe adds white chocolate pieces and—the real kicker—chopped hazelnuts for a rich-dark-buttery-nutty-chewy party in your mouth.
The base here is a mild, welcoming milk chocolate canvas that can handle this chunky overload while staying perfectly creamy. It's not a crazy intense ice cream, but it's the kind of smile-worthy milk chocolate that will keep you lapping up spoonful after spoonful until it's gone.
You can, of course, try to play archaeologist with this scoop and ferret out all the chunks. Just know that you'll have your work cut out for you.