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In the days after Thanksgiving's excesses, I find myself craving the sweet simplicity of apple cider. Good apple cider is tart and spicy, with a texture reminiscent not just of the apple but also of the branch it grew on, the tree, the soil, a chilly breeze.
Frozen into a solid block and then scraped with a spoon, it becomes snowy and light, the flavor of the fall with the texture of winter. Spiked with smooth, oaky dark rum and freshly grated ginger and topped with honey, the composed dessert is a study in autumnal contrast: sweet and tart, crunchy and smooth, icy and warming.