[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

A few days ago I waxed on about the awesomeness that is Jeni's Ice Cream. Well, here's another one for you: Dojo Gelato in Cincinnati's Findlay Market.

For about two years, Michael and Kimberly Christner have been making Dojo's sorbetti and gelati from local Ohio milk. Their menu features seasonally rotating selections that are constantly tinkered with and evolving, many of them playing on favorite flavor combinations from savory dishes or childhood favorites (think flavors like lemongrass, pumpkin, green tea and lime, or peanut butter and Sriracha)

But my favorite flavor of the day was one of the simplest: cream cheese. For starters, it's got that whole salty/savory/sweet thing going for it, along with a nice tangy sour milk bite. It's the texture that really sells it, though. Naturally creamy and mouth coating, the cream cheese adds richness and a good amount of fat to the otherwise lean gelato.

Lemongrass was also a stunner. Made 100% dairy free with a simple mix of water, sugar, and flavoring, it nevertheless had an awesomely creamy, smooth texture and subtle lemony aroma.

I was told in no uncertain terms that neither Jeni's nor Dojo appreciates a comparison between the two, so I won't do it. Suffice it to say, they are both exceptional institutions.

Dojo Gelato

137 Elder Street, Cincinnati, OH 45202 (map); dojogelato.com; 513-328-9000

About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Managing Editor of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.