Apple season has come early in the back garden of my old English row-house in London. Maybe because of the chilly London summer, or because of the particular breed of apple (one I can't identify, crisp and tart and almost pear-shaped) but it's not even August and I've already got more apples than I know what to do with.
Who am I kidding, I know exactly what to do with them. Cook them down with rhubarb, ginger, and cardamom and turn them into ice cream. Apple and rhubarb are a classic English pairing, especially in preserves and chutneys, and locally grown rhubarb (not as local as my apples, but acceptable) is plentiful and delicious.
The combination of apple with rich cream is surprising, reminiscent of fresh yogurt. The cream balances the tang of the rhubarb and brings out the light, cardamom perfume. All together, the flavors are simultaneously complex and deliciously simple, sweet and tart with all the nostalgic melancholy of the end of summer.
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About the author:
Ethan Frisch is the chef and co-mastermind behind Guerrilla Ice Cream. He's traveled around the world and worked as a pastry chef and line cook in some of NYC's great (and not so great) restaurants. He currently lives in London, where he really misses New York City tap water.