[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Oh hi, Summer, didn't see you there. I didn't realize you were coming by so soon, with it being all fog and rain coats two weeks ago. But that's cool, I get it—it's been a long winter and you're looking to get out early. I understand. Actually, I feel the same.

Except I can't, as I start to cook the moment I leave the apartment. So I've actually been hanging out inside with the shades drawn, watching 30 Rock re-runs to the whirr of my fan.

But it's okay, really, because what I lack in air conditioning I make up for in ice cream sandwiches. I was thinking of something with mint and chocolate, but mint's had plenty of attention recently. Basil sounded like a summer-y alternative, light but musky and a delicious (if unlikely) pairing with dark chocolate, which I shaved in as the custard churned. I smushed the ice cream between lemony, buttery cookies, made with low-protein cake flour so they're pillow-soft straight from the freezer.

These sandwiches are all about balance: sweet custard with a savory kick, rich cream made refreshing with basil and lemon. The only problem with them is that my roommates have devoured most of my supply in a fit of basil lust. But that's okay, Summer; you can have one too. They are, after all, my toast to you.

About the authors:

Ethan Frisch is the chef and co-mastermind behind Guerrilla Ice Cream. He's traveled around the world (30 countries, 5 continents) and worked as a pastry chef and line cook in some of NYC's great (and not so great) restaurants. He currently lives in London, where he really misses New York City tap water.

Max Falkowitz writes Serious Eats' weekly Spice Hunting column. He's a proud native of Queens, New York, will do just about anything for a good cup of tea, and enjoys long walks down the aisles of Chinese groceries.You can follow his ramblings on Twitter.


Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: