[Photographs: Jessica Leibowitz]

You might recognize Skinny Cow from the freezer aisle: she's that svelte heifer on boxes of low-calorie ice cream treats. Up next in her low-cal indulgences: chocolate candy.

The new Skinny Cow Heavenly Crisp candy bars (110 calories each) are a cross between Kit Kats and chocolate wafers. The bars are airy and light, and make you feel virtuous. They also came in a peanut butter flavor, which wasn't peanut buttery enough for us. We know the stuff is caloric, but this just felt like a tease; we preferred the milk chocolate instead.

But we were more into the Skinny Cow Dreamy Clusters (120 calories per bag), which could almost pass as mini 100 Grand bars. Both milk and dark chocolate varieties are crunchy and swirling with caramel. The only downside: each bag has only six clusters. Grr, portion control! We'd almost prefer them smaller if it meant we'd get to nibble on twice as many.

Diet treats in general trend towards quantity over quality, and the new products from Skinny Cow are no exception. They're enjoyable enough considering their size. But the real benefit, as Ed mentioned in 2007, is portion control. Sure, we could have a fifth of a Norwegian Kit Kat for the same amount of calories, but we'd probably end up eating the whole thing.

Skinny Cow's message: go ahead, indulge in the entire bar. Just try not to eat the whole box in one sitting.

Skinny Cow candy is available for $4.29 per pack of six.