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[Photographs: Robyn Lee]

I've always liked Milanos—mint, orange, classic, and the adorable miniatures—with their smooth chocolate layer and not-too-sweet, slightly buttery shortbread cookie base. They always seemed somehow more adult than other grocery store cookies.

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But now the Pepperidge Farm folks have made Milano Melts, a gooey version of the classic. When you bite into the cookie, chocolate oozes out (and threatens to get all over your lips and chin.) It's somewhere between ganache and cake frosting in texture, and sweet but not wildly so. While the chocolate isn't seriously intense, it's dark enough to please grownups.

They're also offering a chocolate-chocolate version. The chocolate shortbread is cocoa-flavored and not too sweet, though we wished it had a little more flavor punch. Both versions would be good dipped in milk or coffee.

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