We are introducing a new weekly column into the mix, and it's just on cookies. About time, right? Say hello to Cookie Monster, where we'll pull out the baking sheets each week to explore everything from the classic chocolate chip to sandwich cookies to nut-filled varieties. —The Mgmt.


[Photograph: Carrie Vasios]

When my mother first made these cookies for me, I was skeptical, dare I say snarky. What are these white chocolate coated behemoths? I asked. They couldn't be real biscotti. You should know better. Leave it to an ungrateful child to quite literally eat her words.

In some ways I was right, of course. Italian biscotti are typically small and surprisingly light. These cookies are extra large and despite being double baked, they're not particularly crunchy. But the Italian-American cookie hybrid works.

The flavor is there: the cookie itself is tartly lemony, which offsets the creamy white chocolate coating, and the sprinkling of almonds adds a nuttiness. The slightly cakey texture is actually something many Americans, including myself, enjoy in a cookie, though give these a day and they do dry out and end up perfectly dunkable (in a big, American-sized coffee cup).

Despite my initial reservations, I've continued to bake these biscotti myself. The best part? It turns out they're perfect for that four o'clock snack cravings. And this rarely happens with biscotti: their mild flavor makes it possible to eat an entire bagful before you can say "whoops." But these big guys are perfect: sweet enough to keep you going and large enough to satisfy.


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