[Photograph: Erin Zimmer]

When I first heard about the maple bacon biscuit ($3.75) at Huckleberry, the Santa Monica bakery and cafe, I figured, it's just the token bacon thing for all the bacon heads. There are plenty of other scrumptious-looking baked goods sitting there behind the glass counter: blueberry ciabatta, zucchini bread, cinnamon rolls, kouign amann. But I was a sucker, and ordered the darn biscuit—and it was amazing.

Huckleberry's pastry-chef-cum-owner Zoe Nathan didn't just thoughtlessly throw bacon into a batter. She crafted a perfect biscuit with a nice layered, flaky, buttery (but not greasy) body that crumbles when you rip off a nubbin. It has a slightly sweet, sugar crystal-sprinkled crust, and just the right amount of salt. And then she added bacon.

But not just any bacon. Serious Niman Ranch bacon, all chopped up into smithereens and well distributed—every bites get a few meat bits. And as small as they are, they have that great crunchy-chewiness, and remind you how good bacon soaked in maple syrup is. As someone who's never really been a bacon cheerleader, I am telling you, this biscuit is special. It transcends the silly bacon craze.

The Los Angeles Times published a recipe for the maple bacon biscuits back in 2008. A two-dozen batch calls for a full pound of bacon and half pound of butter!(!!!)


1014 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, CA 90401 (map)


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